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Post by Gary Lecomte on Jul 11, 2009 5:21:06 GMT -8
Hi Gary It is an automative fuse, and ours are rated at 12 volts. I am working hard at getting the money together for your ultimate pwm. The only problem is that the cost is equal to just over half of the amount of income that I have earned in the last 2 and a half months, times are tough at present. I will carry on looking for other types of fuses and holders to see if i can perhaps find a better one. A 12 Volt rating on the fuse, Doesn't make much sense. Your Alternator Actually puts out about 15 Volts. Not sure What type of Fuse you have, But "BUSS" Manufactured Auto Fuses are rated at 32 Volts. Try Measuring the Voltage Drop Across the Fuse. That should gve you some indication of how good or bad the fuse and contact resistance is?
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Post by Deleted on Jul 12, 2009 15:13:05 GMT -8
I've just measured the voltage across the fuse with the system up and running and it is 12v. It is not running off the alternator, it is connected directly to the battery (pos to battery and neg to ground). I'll check with the guys in the auto spares shop and see if they can give me more info on the ratings of the fuse and holder. The sardines have arrived! It is truly "The Greatest Shoal on Earth"! I am very privileged to be able to see it from my front door!
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Post by Gary Lecomte on Jul 12, 2009 16:32:36 GMT -8
I've just measured the voltage across the fuse with the system up and running and it is 12v. It is not running off the alternator, it is connected directly to the battery (pos to battery and neg to ground). I'll check with the guys in the auto spares shop and see if they can give me more info on the ratings of the fuse and holder. The sardines have arrived! It is truly "The Greatest Shoal on Earth"! I am very privileged to be able to see it from my front door! 12 Volts is NOT the voltage Across the Fuse. That is probably the voltage AFTER THE FUSE. Connect your meter leads to Either Side of the Fuse and Measure that.deally it should be ZERO Volts. But it will not be that. Now What does it measure? Gary
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Post by Deleted on Jul 22, 2009 20:19:07 GMT -8
Gill from Manitoba age 59, wish I could contribute more but when it comes to electronics I'm strictly paint by numbers. So if you don't mind I'll lurk awhile, hoping to learn from all you fine folks on this great forum.
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Post by Gary Lecomte on Jul 23, 2009 5:27:53 GMT -8
Gill from Manitoba age 59, wish I could contribute more but when it comes to electronics I'm strictly paint by numbers. So if you don't mind I'll lurk awhile, hoping to learn from all you fine folks on this great forum. No Problem Gill. We are ALL still Learning. That Never Ends. Gary
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Post by Deleted on Jul 24, 2009 3:12:15 GMT -8
Hi Hidroxihhoo! A few days ago the sardins came to my city too, but here we have -8 c º eight under zero of temperature (17.6 Fº) brrrr........ Good luck with your project ;D !!!
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Post by Deleted on Aug 7, 2009 13:12:15 GMT -8
Hi all. Gary, it is definitely the quality of the fuses and fuse holders that are causing the overheating problems. Today I was shown a 40A trip switch that looks like it will do the job. The beauty of this baby is that when it kicks out, it will automatically reset itself! Should save on the cost of new fuses all the time (not that I expect it to give me problems like I'm having now). I have posted my experiences on my website www.hydroxypower.co.za. I will also update you guys here once I have obtained the trip switch and run it a while. Ivan77: the sardines are still coming past my house, although very few and far between. Rather you than me at -8degC. 8degC above is already way to cold! Groetnis
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Post by Gary Lecomte on Aug 7, 2009 16:02:23 GMT -8
40 Amps is a Lot More than I would consider good. I Hope that is Also Low Voltage Rated. And If that is your Intention, use at least a 10 AWG Wire.
But You should try for a 25 to 30 Amp breaker or Trip Switch!
Auto Reset is also NOT such a Good Thing. If you have a Real Fault, It May Continually RECYCLE, Killing your Battery.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 8, 2009 9:54:27 GMT -8
The 40A trip switch is the only one that was on hand to show me what these things look like, I would definitely go for a 30A job. These are used by auto electricians on the cars here which all run on 12v systems, so I am presuming that it is low voltage rated (but I'll certainly ask).
I don't know what 10 AWG wire is (I presume it is a thickness or gauge rating), but I can tell you that the copper wire that I am using is rated good for 50 amps. It is approx. 3mm in diameter. I presume that you're trying to tell me that the wiring must not be too thin.
The on/off switch for the electrolyser is on the dashboard and it has a led which indicates whether there is power to the system or not. So if it continually kicks out I would notice immediately that something is wrong. I can then switch off (while driving) and investigate when it is suitable to do so.
As soon as I have acquired one I will let you know whether this is an issue. I trust not.
Groetnis
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Post by Gary Lecomte on Aug 8, 2009 10:10:22 GMT -8
The 40A trip switch is the only one that was on hand to show me what these things look like, I would definitely go for a 30A job. These are used by auto electricians on the cars here which all run on 12v systems, so I am presuming that it is low voltage rated (but I'll certainly ask). I don't know what 10 AWG wire is (I presume it is a thickness or gauge rating), but I can tell you that the copper wire that I am using is rated good for 50 amps. It is approx. 3mm in diameter. I presume that you're trying to tell me that the wiring must not be too thin. The on/off switch for the electrolyser is on the dashboard and it has a led which indicates whether there is power to the system or not. So if it continually kicks out I would notice immediately that something is wrong. I can then switch off (while driving) and investigate when it is suitable to do so. As soon as I have acquired one I will let you know whether this is an issue. I trust not. Groetnis That 3mm Wire is a 9 AWG. Yes, at least that is Good.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 8, 2009 22:58:57 GMT -8
Hi Gary
Im Sean, U.S.A Austin TX.
I sent an Email subject "electronics" NEVER got a reply! Soooooo?
Anyrate, Hello ALL!
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Post by Gary Lecomte on Aug 9, 2009 6:08:13 GMT -8
Hi Gary Im Sean, U.S.A Austin TX. I sent an Email subject "electronics" NEVER got a reply! Soooooo? Anyrate, Hello ALL! Name Sounds Familiar., I Think I Sent One? PLEASE TRY AGAIN...........Gary
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Post by Deleted on Aug 10, 2009 14:03:28 GMT -8
I have found out why my 30A fuses have been getting hot at under 10A and popping: a bad earth! I went over my whole electrolyser setup and when I looked at where I had fastened the negative lead down to earth then I remembered something. Some years ago I had a Toyota Venture which started giving me trouble, if I remember correctly it was related to the starter. My Dad eventually determined that the engine was badly earthed and so we put our own robust earth strap from the engine to the chassis - instant happiness! The negative from the electrolyser went down to a handy bolt on the engine. All I did was move this to a bolt directly onto the chassis - instant happiness! I will be adjusting the concentration of electrolyte to increase the amp draw and if this does not affect the fuse then I'm not going to worry about getting a trip switch just yet. Thanks for letting me bounce the problem off you, Gary. I believe that by just discussing a problem on this type of forum enables a person to broaden the thinking which eventually leads to solutions being discovered (uncovered?). I'll update on how the fuse reacts to the increased electrolyte concentration. Groetnis
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Post by Deleted on Aug 11, 2009 11:37:29 GMT -8
Ran my electrolyser at 9A start up and after a short round trip the fuse had popped!. So it would seem that the better negative earth has contributed to the fuses not heating up or popping at amperages under 8A. Soooo... I'll still be exploring the option of the trip switch! Darn it! Oh well... Groetnis
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Post by Gary Lecomte on Aug 12, 2009 5:38:57 GMT -8
Ran my electrolyser at 9A start up and after a short round trip the fuse had popped!. So it would seem that the better negative earth has contributed to the fuses not heating up or popping at amperages under 8A. Soooo... I'll still be exploring the option of the trip switch! Darn it! Oh well... Groetnis I Still wish you would do as I previously Asked. MEASURE The Voltage Drop Directly Across your Fuse. The ONLY WAYS a 30 Amp Fuse can Blow is: 1) Your Exceeding 30 Amps. POSSIBLE INTERMITTANT SHORT. 2) Or You have a High Contact Resistance on the Fuse Holder, Causing HEATING and melting the Fuse.
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