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Post by mpupeza on Mar 8, 2009 12:30:43 GMT -8
Gary et al, I'm a new member and do enjoy 'lurking'! However, I will attempt to post occasionally! Count this one as my first! Thanks, Mike Canadian Snowbirding in Florida - home is 100 miles N of Toronto! Interests: Ham Radio VE3EQP Amateur Astronomy 10" f4.5 GEM NEWT, 6"f6 GEM NEWT Sailing Macgregor 25 Electronics Computers (about 6 working laptops inc 2 Macs) Trailering 1993 Bigfoot 17CB
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Post by Deleted on Mar 30, 2009 9:02:09 GMT -8
Monte Pollock Male from Fort Scott,Kansas USA. this site intimidates Me, so much Knowledge makes me feel stupid. I,m a metal detectorist,but also interested in Analog Audio(want to build a Tube stereo Amp) I can spell just have a little trouble typing. HH,Monte
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Post by Deleted on Apr 2, 2009 10:25:36 GMT -8
HOW CAN CAPS BE CHARGED SERIES WHEN THEY BLOCK D.C, THE FIRST ONE SHOULD BE THE ONLY ONE CHARGE I THINK.
GABBY
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Post by Deleted on Apr 2, 2009 10:51:26 GMT -8
I CANT FIND A QUESTION ABOUT ELECTRONICS, IT IS ALL LANGUAGE AND NON ELECTRONICS STUFF. I THINK HAVING A LOT OF EXPERT IS GOOD, WE JUST NEED MORE BEGINNERS LIKE MYSELF TO ASK THE QUESTIONS. I AM GOING TRY AND INTRODUCE AS MUCH NEW ELECTRONICS TECH. AS I CAN. "THE GRASS IS GREEN AND THE HORSE STARVING" GABBY
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Post by Gary Lecomte on Apr 2, 2009 19:09:33 GMT -8
HOW CAN CAPS BE CHARGED SERIES WHEN THEY BLOCK D.C, THE FIRST ONE SHOULD BE THE ONLY ONE CHARGE I THINK. GABBY In Order for Capacitor to Charge, There is Current Flow through All the caps in Series. If the Caps are Different Capacitance Values, They will Not all charge to the Same Voltage. The Lower Capacitance values, Will get a Higher Voltage charge, due to Less current Required to charge them up. Hope this helps...Gary
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Post by Deleted on Apr 5, 2009 9:02:37 GMT -8
why is the capacitance less if all is being charged. still dont get it. I understand parallel but series is still a bit off. gabby
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Post by Deleted on Apr 5, 2009 15:26:48 GMT -8
instead of running your hydrogen electrolyzer off of the alternator why not run it off of a second battery. Keep the amps between 6 and 10 you would have 10 hours on a 120 amp battery. You would only turn it on when your driving then recharge the battery at night. that way you would not burn more gas to make electricity for the electrolyzer. plus charging in the evening is very cheap. just one other question where can you buy koh. for electrolyte
thanks james
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Post by Gary Lecomte on Apr 6, 2009 9:02:10 GMT -8
why is the capacitance less if all is being charged. still dont get it. I understand parallel but series is still a bit off. gabby Capacitors in Parallel Add Capacitance for a total. The Total Capacitance of Capacitors in Series: "Become the Reciprical of all Caps". ---------- 1 ---------------------------- 1 ------- 1 ------- 1 ---- ---- ---- ----- ---- ---- etc C1 ----- C2 ----- C3 Ignore all the Extra Dashes between values. It didn't hold correct positions Without them. A Lower Capacitance Has Less Storage of Current, So it Charges up Faster. Hope this Helps..........Gary Or Maybe I could Phone you to Discuss this Easier?
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Post by Gary Lecomte on Apr 6, 2009 9:13:59 GMT -8
instead of running your hydrogen electrolyzer off of the alternator why not run it off of a second battery. Keep the amps between 6 and 10 you would have 10 hours on a 120 amp battery. You would only turn it on when your driving then recharge the battery at night. that way you would not burn more gas to make electricity for the electrolyzer. plus charging in the evening is very cheap. just one other question where can you buy koh. for electrolyte thanks james Between the Cost of that Extra Battery and the Trouble to Re-Charge it Every Night, What a PAIN IN THE ASSSSSS that is, and probably for no real overall gain in savings! And it Must be a "DEEP Cycle Battery" for that application, or it Won't last very long. And 6 to 10 Amps, Won't give very much Gas. Typical systems run at 20 to 25 Amps. Chemical Supply Houses. Look in your Yellow Pages.
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Post by rupert on Apr 15, 2009 16:00:16 GMT -8
Paul here from Mississauga, Ontario. I joined up here long ago and forgot all about the site. Browsing through old emails brought me back.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 6, 2009 7:54:31 GMT -8
Hi all, new member here. I have a lot to learn so I will be asking questions on what I can't find. If I get to be too much of a pest let me know. Thanks
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Post by Deleted on Jul 10, 2009 16:11:48 GMT -8
Hi all John Viljoen from Oslo Beach, sunny South Africa. I am presently running an electrolyser in my aging 1.8 Audi A4 (311 000 kms). With no electronic enhancements I have improved economy by 50%. At 9,5a I get about 1,35litres per minute. The design principle is HHOO and so far it works for me. Because of the lack of space around the engine I run the electrolyser in a 2,1litre container, and with an el cheapo fuel pump the electrolyte is circulateds via a 2litre reservoir through a small radiator and back to the electrolyser. I have attached a cooling fan from an ancient pc power supply (it is bigger than the fans in the newer models). In winter (which is now) our minimum temperature rarely touches 10 deg centigrade, 12 - 15 is the usual range for the minimum. The max temp (in winter) is seldom below 20 deg c, eg yesterday it was 27 and today was a cooler 25. So heat can quickly become a problem here. I switch the power to the system via a 35amp relay with a 30 amp fuse. A problem that I am experiencing is that the fuse keeps on running hot (while the electrolyser is only drawing 9 - 10 amps). It usually starts melting from about 8a and when it has been between 9 - 10a for a little while it pops. All the wiring in the circuit is very thick, I don't know what the guage is but it is rated for 50 amps. At first I thought it was the fuse holder which looked like it couldn't handle much so I replaced it with a decent one, heavy guage wire etc. It still heats up (& very quickly). Can anyone help? What else should I be looking at?
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Post by Gary Lecomte on Jul 10, 2009 18:05:59 GMT -8
Hi all John Viljoen from Oslo Beach, sunny South Africa. I am presently running an electrolyser in my aging 1.8 Audi A4 (311 000 kms). With no electronic enhancements I have improved economy by 50%. At 9,5a I get about 1,35litres per minute. The design principle is HHOO and so far it works for me. Because of the lack of space around the engine I run the electrolyser in a 2,1litre container, and with an el cheapo fuel pump the electrolyte is circulateds via a 2litre reservoir through a small radiator and back to the electrolyser. I have attached a cooling fan from an ancient pc power supply (it is bigger than the fans in the newer models). In winter (which is now) our minimum temperature rarely touches 10 deg centigrade, 12 - 15 is the usual range for the minimum. The max temp (in winter) is seldom below 20 deg c, eg yesterday it was 27 and today was a cooler 25. So heat can quickly become a problem here. I switch the power to the system via a 35amp relay with a 30 amp fuse. A problem that I am experiencing is that the fuse keeps on running hot (while the electrolyser is only drawing 9 - 10 amps). It usually starts melting from about 8a and when it has been between 9 - 10a for a little while it pops. All the wiring in the circuit is very thick, I don't know what the guage is but it is rated for 50 amps. At first I thought it was the fuse holder which looked like it couldn't handle much so I replaced it with a decent one, heavy guage wire etc. It still heats up (& very quickly). Can anyone help? What else should I be looking at? Hi John, Sound Like a POOR Fuse Holder. Most Fuse holders don't work well With High Amperage. Too Much Contact Resistance. Also, Are you using Automotive Fuses, Typically Rated at 32 Volts? Or are your fuses rated at 250 Volts? Fuses rated at 250 Volts have TOO HIGH of an Internal Resistance and that could cause your Fuse Heating Problem. My "Ultimate PWM", should fix this, if you decide to get it. Gary
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Post by dinomon on Jul 10, 2009 23:47:06 GMT -8
Hahaha.. it seems that all people who posted here seems afraid to be deleted. Anyway Mr. Gary's site is one of the best website. I enjoy reading your post guys. And glad to be part of this forum. Keep up the good work Gary.
-michael-
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Post by Deleted on Jul 11, 2009 0:13:50 GMT -8
Hi Gary
It is an automative fuse, and ours are rated at 12 volts.
I am working hard at getting the money together for your ultimate pwm. The only problem is that the cost is equal to just over half of the amount of income that I have earned in the last 2 and a half months, times are tough at present.
I will carry on looking for other types of fuses and holders to see if i can perhaps find a better one.
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