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Post by Gary Lecomte on Jun 27, 2017 15:22:54 GMT -8
I Doubt my Fencer circuit (or Similar) would be of any Help for your needs.
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Post by Gary Lecomte on Jun 27, 2017 6:20:44 GMT -8
I didn't think replacing those parts would solve your problem.
A few years ago, a person mailed me one of those detectors to repair it. I spent almost a full day on it and I did get it working, but not as good as it really should do.
Quite Disappointing!
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Post by Gary Lecomte on Jun 23, 2017 15:45:29 GMT -8
Yes, The Best way to go for High Current and High Voltage. But I have also done some Large Flybacks. The Small One I pictured above is a Flyback. One circuit I designed.
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Post by Gary Lecomte on Jun 23, 2017 6:55:39 GMT -8
I have made Many Low to High Voltage Step Up Transformers. This is a Small one I presently manufacture for a US company. Approximately a 1 Inch cube, 12 Volts in, 10KV out and runs at 6Khz. Obviously this one is Not for High Power, Just High Voltage. When Finished off, it gets Potted in a special Wax to prevent Arcing. But I have also made some High Voltage and High Current ones using those Big E-Cores. One was 12 Volts and 30 Amps in, 4 KV out.
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Post by Gary Lecomte on Jun 22, 2017 7:02:35 GMT -8
1.5 mm is Definitely an Excessive LARGE GAP.
A 0.06 mm Piece of material, Just placed on the Two Outer rectangles will create a more suitable 0.06 mm gap on the round center pole. Simple and No Grinding.
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Post by Gary Lecomte on Jun 21, 2017 5:34:31 GMT -8
I think, for welding currents piece of mica or tape isn't enough. Usage of grinding looks to be the way to go. What has the Welding Current got to do with Gapping? I have made some Very High Current Transformers with these E Cores, just using the transformer tape. However the Mica and Nomex create a more stable gap width. However from a stand point of Mass Production it is Easier to just order Pre-Gapped Cores.
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Post by Gary Lecomte on Jun 20, 2017 6:05:24 GMT -8
Yes, But Only if you use Separate 8 or 9 Volt Batteries for it. Why don't you just use an Analogue Micro-Amp Meter?Attachments:
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Post by Gary Lecomte on Jun 19, 2017 13:16:18 GMT -8
The High Voltage comes in on the Right Side Insulator and travels through the Fence Wire to the Bulb. Than a Spark Gap from the other terminal of the bulb to Ground. This Spark Gap is Set as Wide as Possible but so it still sparks. This way it Maintains as High as possible voltage on the wire. (My Fencer-2 is Set for Multiple Pulses each time it Fires.)
If the Fence Wire shorts out, than the Bulb won't light.
It is also possible to but the bulb at the High Voltage Input and No Spark gap at the End. Due to Insulator Leakages, The Bulb will light on Each Flash, Showing the Fencer is Working. However It will NOT indicate a Shorted Fence Wire. Other than possibly being a Bit Brighter.
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Post by Gary Lecomte on Jun 17, 2017 13:13:14 GMT -8
increased booster power from about 120W to 190W. MUCH better. it seems to be direct relation here. my estimation is - we need roughly 400W for 2mm rod. I use Many different ferrite cores that are NOT Gapped by the manufacturer. I just Gap them with Either a Piece of Mica or some Heat Resistant Transformer Tape. Usually I gap them with 0.03 mm thick piece on each leg of the ferrite. Sometimes a thicker piece, 0.06 mm of "Nomex Paper", used in transformer construction. I can also supply you with One Bobbin for this E Core.
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Post by Gary Lecomte on Jun 17, 2017 10:16:44 GMT -8
Maybe as a ROUGH GUIDE LINE.
Changing Duty Cycle Results in LESS Current in the Arc, So Less ability to Ionize the air.
The Distance of the arc is Somewhat dependent on Voltage and Distance. But it is also dependant on the Surface's, where the arc is created. Also Dependant on Humidity of the Air, possibly also the Ambient Air Temperature. I Suspect also Air Pressure.(Are you at Sea Level or High Up on a Mountain, even less in a high Vacuum.)
For a Given Voltage, A Very Sharp "PIN Point" will give the Greatest Arc Distance. For the Same Voltage, A Blunt Point will be Less Arc Distance. For the Same Voltage, A Ball shape will be the LEAST Arc Distance. (And Bigger Balls, Less Distance.)
EDIT: With my Car Coil Driver and Two Sharp Points, I am getting a spark of 17mm. Increasing the Gap wider, It Arks across the Surface from the Top of the Coil to the Negative Terminal. Probably with Good HV Insulation I would get a 20 to 25mm Spark
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Post by Gary Lecomte on Jun 17, 2017 9:39:39 GMT -8
Here is the Data Sheet for these B66343 E Core Ferrites. as far as i can see from the foto, your core is ungapped ? Yes but you can Gap Them.
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Post by Gary Lecomte on Jun 17, 2017 5:27:22 GMT -8
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Post by Gary Lecomte on Jun 16, 2017 20:01:09 GMT -8
Personally I would be curious as to why Silverdog uses that BLACK COATED PCB. It is extremely difficult to follow the Copper traces on it, also making it more difficult to fix problems.
Or is it to try to prevent others from Copying it?
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Post by Gary Lecomte on Jun 16, 2017 15:13:39 GMT -8
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Post by Gary Lecomte on Jun 16, 2017 5:59:25 GMT -8
Less than 1/4 Amp of Average Current. The Current Draw has Nothing to do with the Length of Fence. The Current Draw will be the Same for Any Length of fence.
QUOTE: "I find it strange to see the timing caps being 10 uF and 18 uF for the second 555." NOT 18 uF, it is .18 uF.
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