Dump load question

[Deleted]

I set up a treadmill motor as a windmill and it works good but am not sure on how to set up a plug in off of the IRFZ44N, this will show the dump load controller ghurd.info/
all help appreciated.
THANKS
Phil & Colleen

[Deleted]

Guess I should have explained it a little better. I would like to know how to set it up so the IRFZ44N will turn on the inverter.

[Gary Lecomte]

Your Inverter (Or Any Load) Goes between the Battery Positive and the Drain of the Mosfet.
The Mosfet Should be HEAT SINKED with a suitable sized one.

For the Inverter, I would also recommend a 10,000uf Cap across its Positive and Negative. As It creates High Switching Currents.

And Depending on the Wattage of your Inverter, That IRFZ44N Mosfet may not be suitable.

[rmeyn]

I'm particularly interested in this thread since I have my own alternative energy set up at my cabin in the mountains west of here.
I don't understand why you want your shunt type controller to turn on your invertor. The dump controller is used to shunt (direct) excess power to an external load when the battery bank has reached full charge (usually about 14.4V). I doubt the controller will be working with an invertor on line and under load. Unless, you have one huge windmill producing much more than the invertor load. I'm not exactly sure of your set up. Perhaps you could give more details. I would be happy to exchange information. that I have. The MOSFET mentioned above certainly needs to be heat sinked. It's size or current carrying capacity is really dependent upon how much current will be shunted to the dump load, resistor, light bulbs, or whatever. I can't see where the invertor has much to do with it.
Richard (rmeyn)

[Deleted]

I agree. What kind of wind system are playing with, a windmill system or a verticle shaft? I have a similar motor and am playing mind games with a verticle shaft system using 3 or 4 hollow hemisheres to establish a omni-directional wind pattern capability. Just curious, Ron.

[Deleted]

I am currently using two 3.5hp, 17.4 amp, 130 V, but am in process of building Hugh Picketts mill. I just wasn't sure I could just put the inverter in between positive and drain, after reading it might not be a good idea to use a Watzpower 1000 DC to AC inverter in that position. I was hoping Gary or somebody might have a circuit already tried that was fairly easy to install that would be safe to run a heater. I am new to this and electronics but have bought things from Gary and he has been able to explain them to me, I have read all your posts for sometime now and you have all taught me alot. I haven't really got a system down pat yet, just playing around. I have 2 vertical and was debating with myself about the 8' or 10' vertical of Hugh Pickett.
THANK YOU ALL
Phil

[rmeyn]

I have a few questions. Is your inverter going to be hooked up all the time? If so, I would assume it is the primary load. Do you want a heater for excess energy produced, or is it the primary load?
How many watts will your heater dissipate? What voltage will it run from? Is it a AC or DC heater? One can design a shunt mode dump controller or other type of controller for the excess energy , but more information is needed.
rmeyn (Richard)

[Deleted]

Richard, I have 2, 500 watt oil filled sill heaters, but am looking for the older type electric heaters for the mill. I just could not understand how the controller could be hooked so it would only have the load on after batteries are at full charge. The inverter is not necessary but I have it, if I was to use it, how would the controller be able to start it after the batteries where fully charged and not before. Since starting all of this I find the oil filled heaters will not work off DC, I was hoping they would work like the old cadium wire ones, that didn't seem to mind AC or DC. I had planned on using these as primary load for some help on heat bill this winter. I run one in U.P. of Michigan for 6 yrs but that was 25 yrs ago and due to health can't remember a thing about my setup.
THANK YOU, Phil

[rmeyn]

Phil,
It appears your primary interest is in generating heat. The best way, I believe, is to find a DC heater that you can connect directly to the wind generator. A wind generator must have a load on at all times to prevent run away in high winds. The heater would definitely provide the load. But, you would have various amounts of heat generated whenever the wind blows. This would be the simplest solution.
You will have to hook up an invertor if you can only find AC heaters. A 120VAC invertor for a 120VAC heater, etc. But an invertor will not work satisfactorily unless you have a battery bank to buffer the voltage level.
A controller circuit we have been taking about is not for controlling the inverter. It is for shunting excess power when the batteries are fully charged. I can point you to a very good design that is easy to construct, but it is limited to 20AMPS (240 watts) for 12 volt systems 20 AMPS (480 watts) for 24 volt systems. Perhaps Gary can point you to circuits for higher power. There are many commercially available ones but they are costly.
No matter which way you go, you have to carefully consider the currents that we be flowing and adjust wire guage accordingly.
Fuses will also be important. High currents at low voltages are not usually life threatening, but you can get serious burns if you short-circuit the layout. I hope this helps.
Richard L. Meyn
rmeyn

[rmeyn]

Phil,
The following is a layout plan for the wind/solar power supply I am using.


I am presently using this plan and it works very well. It shows the relationship between invertor, charge controller, dump load, and battery bank.
Maybe this will help you.
Richard L. Meyn

p.s. Gary. I still have no luck posting an image directly with the attach images [/img] protocol. How do I modify the above
link to make it work?

First "Highlight Link" and than click on "Insert Image"

[Deleted]

THANK YOU, that helps for now but would be very interested in the circuit you mentioned, it would work for my two DC heaters. I am using house breakers for fuses and auto air conditioner relays, haven't blown one yet! I just couldn't understand how the controller would not charge batteries but let the inverter work, now I can see where a relay would take care of it. THANK YOU, Phil

[rmeyn]

The more I think about this, the more I think you should try the setup I posted above.
(1) The relay handles the big current load. You can buy heavy duty automotive types if you need them.
(2) You can make your own heater element to go where it shows a light bank. See if you can find some 1/2 ohm 300 watt resistors and wire them up in parallel with appropriate cage to prevent fires. I bought mine from Allied Electronics but they are about $30 each.
(3) Attach the inverter to the batteries as shown. Turn it on when you want AC power, otherwise don't.
(4) When the batteries reach full set point (as determined by the controller board) the relay will trip and you will have heat.
(5) I don't know what would happen if you connected the inverter to the relay. It probably would work if the relay can handle the startup current surge.
You can find the controller board circuit diagram at:
www.fieldlines.com/story/2004/9/20/0406/27488

I might be able to provide a circuit board if you are interested. I'm using this layout at present, but my wind turbine is not attached. Just my solar panels are attached. It works great. I have an LED voltage monitor to tell me the approximate charge state of my batteries. My only complaint is that the controller board uses about 35 mA when the solar cells are not producing. (if I leave the board connected to the batteries)
I'm presently working on a version that will not start if the input voltage is less than 12 volts. (Richard L. Meyn

[Gary Lecomte]

With a Slight Modification, You could Eliminate the Relay completely.

Gary

[Deleted]

Richard I want a ciruit board if you have one, give me a price and let me know how yu want payment, you can use my email same name at peoplepc.com
THANKS
Phil

[rmeyn]

Phil,
You have not mentioned how much electronic experience you've had. I can email you the printed circuit pattern for the controller any time -- no charge. It works very well with blue transfer paper and a copy machine.

I would be willing to etch and drill a board for you for $10.00. I make no warranty claims as this is not my design, but I am currently using it and it works.
You have be careful soldering the components because some of the circuit lines are very fine and can easily be damaged . The parts are not hard to find. If you don't have the means to order them, I could provide them at cost plus postage. I have not had time to price these out, but I think the total would be under $20.00. I have most of the parts on-hand ,but not all. You may have your own parts inventory. I don't know. Let me know.

One could modify the circuit to use solid state switching instead of a relay , but that would require re- arranging the circuit board to allow for a beefy heat sink. Relays may be low tech, but they are easy to replace, if damaged.
rmeyn