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Post by Gary Lecomte on Apr 9, 2007 6:30:32 GMT -8
YES, A Series Cell is Much Better. Especially if its Well Sealed between PLates, resulting in a Equil Voltage Drop across each set of cells.
Ideally you want a Voltage drop across each cell of about 2 Volts or less. And that requires quite a bit of K0H.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 11, 2007 15:23:34 GMT -8
Gary is this the correct way to connect this varaic. It has a terminal strip numbered 651427 Its a GE 9T92A. the input says terminals 4-1 Outout says 4-3 . Problem I am having is there is no terminal marked 3. but I have wiring diagram that looks like a kids picture of water waves. sorta like uuuuuuu with the tops connecting. the first two waves are like J then a J turned backwards, over the tops of the long stems of the Js there is a number 1 and on the other a number 5. then there are three connected u's there is a 3 with a black arrow pointing up into the Peak if the u from the bottom of the diagram then there are 3 more u's connecting to a J with a 2 over the top a backwards J with the short side or u shaped portion of the J connected to a regular J with a 4 over the top. Recon you can help tell me what is the three terminal? Please help, this variac is brand new (old Stock)....update........I found that the number 3 terminal is the brush terminal.
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Post by Gary Lecomte on Apr 12, 2007 5:48:11 GMT -8
Sorry I don't have any info on that Variac.
But First and MOST IMPORTANT if you want to protect your investment. Put a Suitable FUSE in the 110 Volt Input. Without knowing the Rating of this Variac, Possibly a 5 Amp Fuse.
The terminal that goes to the Brush is the Output.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 15, 2007 4:37:39 GMT -8
Gary, I've tried the capacitor with my speaker. But with the capacitor connected all I can get from the speaker is a boonk sound , like someone bumping a piano key. with the capacitor removed, I get the tones but they are very loud. I even ran thru a 50K pot to try to adjust the volume level down but that doesn,t work to well. I have the variac wired up and it is so sweet. So I am listening to the tone at about 6 V. increasing the Voltage makes the tone get very loud. I am listening to a regular set frequency pulse until I can get parts th repair your PWM. Any suggestions on how to control the volume to the speaker? As I guess I'm listening to pulsed DC with little or no AC. ( the DC is going thru the Big capacitor I got from you then thru the PWM there is a capacitor connected across the load on the PWM output, then when I wire a capacitor in series with the speaker I get nothing. When I remove the capacitor that is in series with the speaker , the tone is very loud. Thanks
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Post by Gary Lecomte on Apr 15, 2007 6:16:35 GMT -8
That Large Capacitor that you got from me is just for Filtering your Power Supply.
Connecting your Speaker Directly to the Output is Dangerous. You Will Eventually Burn it OUT.
You need a capacitor of 10uF to 100uF, Connected in Series with the Speaker. 10uF will give a low volume and a 100uF will give a Higher Volume. ** Possibly you could go a bit larger than 100uF, However, Too Large of a Capacitor will CANCEL the PWM effect to your cell.
Than this is either Connected Across your Cell, or Across the Drain to Source of the Mosfet.
The Capacitor Will Block the DC, But allow the Frequency to pass through the Speaker.
Also, Depending on the FREQUENCY your using, it May be out of your Hearing Range.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 15, 2007 11:59:43 GMT -8
Gary I had an old speaker,mounted in its own plastic box. It has those red and black press down to release the wire connections.(quick connects) These are Hi FI automobile speakers. Anyway I opened up the case and sordered a 10uf capacitor in the + input wire. Then I sordered a 50K pot inline between the speaker and the 10uf capacitor. I drilled and mounted the pot to the speaker housing. I also added a on / off switch into the - wire and mounted it in the housing beside the pot. This setup works great and is a compact little package. All I have to do is connect across the cell via speaker wire , turn on the switch and adjust frequency (tone) until I like it then turn the switch off. and monitor cells output.The pot still doesn't turn the volume down much but with the 10uf capacitor its not ear shattering.
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Post by Gary Lecomte on Apr 16, 2007 6:33:06 GMT -8
A 50K Pot is WAY TOO LARGE.
A 500 Ohm or a 1K Pot would be MUCH BETTER.
And you need to wire it so that One outer terminal of the pot, Goes to the Minus input as well as connected to the Speaker Minus.
The Other Outer Terminal of the pot goes to the Input Capacitor.
And the Center Terminal of the pot Goes to the Speaker Positive.
This will give you TOTAL Control over the Volume.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 19, 2007 0:43:06 GMT -8
Gary I rewired a 5k pot as you suggested above just had a 5k on hand anyway this works great. Thanks for this info.
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Post by Deleted on May 20, 2007 4:03:08 GMT -8
Gary could a 12 DC to 115AC at 200 to 500 watt inverter be used to power a toroid transformer, To produce lets say 60V DC (rectified) at about 2 to maybe 10 amps. I was thinking along these lines to get a high DC voltage on a 12V automobile system. Or could pulsed 12V DC drive a 115V AC input toroid transformer?
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Post by Gary Lecomte on May 20, 2007 15:44:35 GMT -8
Gary could a 12 DC to 115AC at 200 to 500 watt inverter be used to power a toroid transformer, To produce lets say 60V DC (rectified) at about 2 to maybe 10 amps. I was thinking along these lines to get a high DC voltage on a 12V automobile system. Or could pulsed 12V DC drive a 115V AC input toroid transformer? Not sure what your trying to do? But If you Rectify it, you will have More DC and basically your just creating an electromagnet. It will Not operate properly as a Transformer. If you don't rectify it, it can than drive a toroid transformer. But since I have No Idea What Toroid Transformer, or inverter that you have, I won't comment on how good it will work. It would be far more practical to build a DC to DC converter, or just make an inverter that put out 60 volts. **Dual Conversion like what your planning is Considerably More Inefficient.
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Post by Deleted on May 23, 2007 1:47:48 GMT -8
Gary I am planning a larger Series Cell of my Bell Shape design. As you know with a series cell , if you increase the number of cells you must increase the voltage. This is planned for my Jeep. I am planning a 24 cell unit requiring around 48V DC 10amp max (hopefully I won't need to pull 10 amp). I have a toroid transformer that supplies 64V and 32V from its dual primaries.I don,t know how many amps the toroid can handle but I think its around 8 to 10 amps. Toroid use to power Mackie amplifier.Anyway will a DC to DC converter handle the above requirements for my cell?
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Post by Gary Lecomte on May 24, 2007 6:00:24 GMT -8
Gary I am planning a larger Series Cell of my Bell Shape design. As you know with a series cell , if you increase the number of cells you must increase the voltage. This is planned for my Jeep. I am planning a 24 cell unit requiring around 48V DC 10amp max (hopefully I won't need to pull 10 amp). I have a toroid transformer that supplies 64V and 32V from its dual primaries.I don,t know how many amps the toroid can handle but I think its around 8 to 10 amps. Toroid use to power Mackie amplifier.Anyway will a DC to DC converter handle the above requirements for my cell? I have no idea what a Mackie Amplifier is? Yes a DC to DC Converter can be built using a torroid. However what is the input voltage for that torroid? With a DC to DC Converter, consider this: If your Using the 48 Volt Output, and you want 48 volts at 10 amps, That is 480 Watts. 480 watts from a 12 volt battery is a Minimim of 40 Amps, Assuming 100% efficiency. But to be More Practical it will Probably draw about 48 amps, Just to get the 48 volts in AC Voltage. now consider this: With that 10 amps of AC, after rectifying and Filtering, it will probably be about only be 7 amps of actual DC output. Can you live with drawing 48 amps from your battery to get 7 amps at that voltage. *** And if your Torroid is 110 Volts in and your planning on using an Inverter to 110 volts, than the Torroid to Down convert and Rectify, You will Probably even get Less Out at even Higher Current from your Battery. FAR MORE PRACTICAL, Build Three or Four 12 Volt Series Cells and Connect them in Parallel.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 1, 2007 13:44:20 GMT -8
Gary I have a large panel mounted 30amp Powerstat Variac . Do you know anything about wiring it? There are four posts, positioned as in the four corners of a square. the top two have no identification markings, directly below these posts one has 115V with a line drawn to the other that says output (Its a PowerStat 1126-2PR, 3.5 KVA , 30 amp) .....supposed to output 140V ......What does KVA mean? img452.imageshack.us/my.php?image=variacjc7.jpg I took the cover off and found out that: The two posts that are on the left (top and bottom) are connected thru the coil. Bottom left and bottom right are connected together with shunt. Top right is brush or armature. I hope this will help you to help me. Thanks
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Post by Deleted on Jun 2, 2007 4:36:46 GMT -8
OK I found that the input AC connects to the two posts on the left marked 115V top right is brush and bottom right is common. Gary could you explain what is 3.5 KVA ?
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Post by Gary Lecomte on Jun 2, 2007 19:14:38 GMT -8
OK I found that the input AC connects to the two posts on the left marked 115V top right is brush and bottom right is common. Gary could you explain what is 3.5 KVA ? KVA is Kilo-Volt-Amps. Basically the same as Kilo-Watts. So it is 3500 Watts.
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